Ed Hamer (UK)
Having recently met Ed can I now say I've seen the future???
Well I'm possibly not as sure of that like my colleague James is - but after seeing him crank at The Works and seen how he's tearing up routes and boulders he's definitively got a big future in this sport. And in my book he's one of the UK's hottest prospect and we're super psyched to have him wearing Wild Country and using Red Chili shoes too...
From a climbing family, Ed's brother cranks too, Ed's young keen and very strong and does look set to get some hard stuff done too...and what's great is that he's not just resting on his boudering and sports climbing but is challenging himself with some bold grit stuff too.
Ed tells us some more:
'I have been climbing for 6 years now, and joined the British Team a year ago. up until I was 9 we lived in Africa ( I was born in zimbabwae) then we moved to England and lived near York for 7 years and basically in 2004 I started to train and wanna get good at climbing.
I love climbing outside and ticking lots of amazing routes and boulders and really enjoy putting the time in on the training at The Works in Sheffield. For me when I saw this video on youtube 'PRO TIPS' it was called and saw this strong climber Jared Roth holding a campus rung with one hand full crimped and thought that is my aim, so I trained hard on the finger board after school and now I can do it and the longest I have held it is 27 seconds my record hahah want to get amazing crimp strength and specialise in it ;) love it!!!
For routes I have done 24 8a's, 5 8a+'s and 6 8b's. I have onsighted 8a and done 8b second go, in bouldering I have done 27 V9's,12 V10's, 8 V11's and 7 V12's.
Routes Boulders and More
Bouldering sends include the following Second Ascents:
- Drink Driving (fb 8a+) on the Orme
- Jack The Drunk (fb 8a+) on the Orme
- Super Size Me 8A+ Curbar Edge UK
- Tumble Weed (fb 8a) Raven Tor.
3rd Ascents include:
- Malteser/Last Rites (fb 8a) on the Orme
- The Wire (fb 8a+) on the Orme
- In Hell (fb 8a+)
- Halfway House (fb 8a+) The Cave
- In Life (fb 8a+) The Cave
- The Press Low Left (fb 8a+) Rubicon,
- Zeke The Freak (8b)
- Rasta Veux Rien (8b)
- Kurfil (8b)
- Migranya (8b) 4th go
- Photo Shot (8b) 3rd go
- Ramadan (8b) second do
- Tic i Toc 8a+
- Grooved Arete 8a+/8b
- Elle m'est Passee Sous Le Nez 8a+
- La Muse Gueule ,8a+
- La Cara Que no miente 8a+
And just finally I did my first E7 6b with Tom Randall which was Masters Edge, then followed that up with Balance It Is E7 6C, and have just ticked Silent Scream E7 6C as well...
Thats about it ummmm also climbed Cotopaxi (5985m) in Ecuador when I was 12 years old dunno if you want that haha....
Mon 15th March 2010 - I was out at Curbar again this evening and I managed the 2nd Ascent of 'Super Size Me' Font 8A+ put up by Simon Newstead about 2 weeks ago. Its an amazing problem, was really psyched to do it!!!!! as it is my hardest thing on Grit!! The pads help loads again cause it's a terrible landing! Ha!!!
Ed on Super Size Me 8a+, Curbar UK
Ed Hamer sends us us more on his Aussie mega trip:
"Well again its been a pretty busy week....It started off at The Glen where Nick was hoping to get a few more pictures but unfortunatly the weather wasnt so great so we both just decided to climbed instead. I managed to make a send of 'Tutu Sullied Flesh' (8a) and finished the day with a great couple of 7c's. Next up was Bardens Lookout, I was keen to try and tick a climb called Bloodline (8b/+) which is an amazing route with plenty of roof climbing. The conditions that day where just excellent. After warming up I managed to send the route first red-point. I was super happy about that!
Ed flashes Brain Haemorrhage 8b
After a rest Holger had recommended I go for the flash on its neighbour 'Brain Haemorrhage' (8b) at first I thought that was a little to much but finally decided to go for it and to my surprise I climbed all the way to the top ;) This was my first flash of this grade.....and what a great feeling it was!!!!
The next day I met up with Karen who was keen to head to Diamond Falls.
She was trying to finished off a route called 'Mr Meaner' (8a+). She came very close that morning but unfortunalty fell high up on the last hard move of the crux.....I was keen to try Mr Line (8b+). This link adds a much harder start into the crux of Hairline 2000 (7c+) After working out the moves low down....I rested and then sent on my 2nd try ;) good moves!!!.....I am heading back to DF tomoz to meet up with Karen. Cant wait to try Mr Tickle (8b+).....Lets see what happens.....5 days to go!!!!
Well yesterday I went back down to Diamond Falls with Karen. After warming up on a fantastic 23 pitch we headed around to the main wall for the really buissness. I had one quick go on 'Mr Tickle' (8b+) but fell going out for this really small crimp which is around this little bulge, so you cant see it for shiiiiitt!! Great moves on perfect small edges......for me this is a sort of style I dream about!! Then it was Karens turn on 'Mr Meaner' (8a+)....she climbed the first wall very smoothly and then came the crux....she punched through it and clipped the chains ;)....She had been working this route for a while so was totally made up when she climbed it! Totally crushed! Her first of the grade!
Then it was my turn to keep the send train rolling......I didnt climb the lower wall as well as I would have liked but got through it again and found myself resting before the hard slap to the crimp...... I went fully for it and stuck it!! After this it eases off and so I also clipped the chains on Mr Tickle!! Good times ;) I then finished the day by repeating Hairline 2000 and Super Duper Goo in order to get some pictures and a little video footage.....good training!!"
Ed on the amazing Super Duper Goo....
I arrived in Australia after 24 hours of travelling feeling pretty spaced out and absolutely knackered. My journey consisted of flying from London via Paris and Guangzhou to Sydney. It was pretty full on.
Ed realises he's not in Sheffield anymore!!!
Anyway, I woke up the next day feeling slightly better and got myself some breakfast before checking out one of the local climbing gyms in St Peters. I was staying in a great little hostel in Newtown called Billabong Gardens. Newtown is a brilliant spot to be as there are plenty of shops/supermarkets/bars/restaurants/cinema’s - loaaads!!!!
After a couple days I met up with some great people inlcuding Amy Wilson, Matt Adams and Bill Hatcher who were really helpful and gave me plenty of contacts for my stay. Yesterday, I headed to the Villawood Climbing Gym to meet up with Carlie and Rob and to have a training session to loosen up. It is a fantastic wall with plenty of routes and boulder problems to go at across all grades.
I then headed back with them out of the city to their place in Falconbridge, close to the Blue Mountains. Today, I am resting as it was a pretty full on session the night before…..my body is feeling all beat up! Next stop…..Blue Mountains ;)
Week 2 - Into the Blue Mountains…
After a couple of rest days I felt ready to climb again. I hopped on the train from Carlie and Rob’s place and 30 minutes later was in Katoomba. Here I met up with a local climber, Matt Norgrove, and together we headed out to one of the newer crags in the Blue Mountains called Elphinstone. There was a large group of people at the crag that day so the psyche was high. I started with a route called ‘Tiger Snatch’ (29/8a) which climbs up an impressive orange coloured wall. There were some super gymnastic moves between good natural breaks. I managed to send this on my 2nd attempt which got the ball rolling.
Next up was a climb called ‘Green Grass’ (29/8a). This is by far one of the best lines I have ever seen. A few guys had been trying the route that day so I was encouraged to go for the flash. This went pretty well for me and before I knew it I was resting after the crux moves with another 10 metres to go on slightly easier ground. I managed to dig deep and complete the flash. It was a great feeling clipping the chains; a 5 star route ;o). Then we headed home after a great first day of climbing.
Ed in action
The next day Matt decided to take me to a crag called Barden’s Lookout. It was pretty hot and sweaty but in the shade, so it was still possible to climb. I got ready and went for a route called ‘The way of all flesh’ (28/7c+). After some goes at the hard boulder start, I climbed through to the top. Another fantastic route!!!
Then I had a quick go at Bloodline (8b/+) to the right, but felt pretty beasted by then to have any chance of climbing it. Next time maybe ;o)
We woke early raring to go. The previous night a friend of Matt’s called Gavin had come up for the weekend to climb in the mountains. We had planned to check out a crag called ’Red Ledge’. It’s another amazing piece of rock with a range set of routes. It has a slightly longer walk in - about 45 minutes - but pretty flat ground the whole way. We arrived early in the morning becasue the sun hits this crag in the afternoon. Matt got warmed up on a climb called ‘Andys 24’ (7a+). I then followed and Gavin gave it a few good shots although I think he had previously climbed it sometime before. Matt then told me to try ‘Bloodshot’ (30/8a+), which he had climbed already. It was well chalked up and again climbed up an amazing, bright orange wall. I had a go at the onsight, but didn’t get very far. It had three obvious cruxes which all felt pretty tough to me. However, after working out the beta I made it to the top on my second attempt which was cool. Another five star line!
We made the long walk back in full sun and 30°C and decided to finish the day with a session at the boulder gym in Blackheath. This is by far the best training gym I have ever used ;o). Totally psyched!!
After three solid days of climbing, I started to feel pretty tired, but was just too psyched and I didn’t want to rest. Matt had some work on so I got dropped off in Blackheath, met up with Rob and Carlie and headed to another crag called ‘Centennial Glen’. This sector was just unbelievable. There were so many good looking climbs that I just didn’t know where to start. I warmed up on a tough route called ‘Padington’ (25/7b) and then belayed Carlie on a route called ‘August 1914’ (29/8a). This had a very hard bouldery start with some big moves. She worked out the beta, but decided to back off and save some skin. I was next in line, and decided to try the flash. I sketched my way through the start and found myself shaking out with a dodgey knee-bar rest before finishing up even more crimpy moves to some final jugs. I was pretty happy with this flash!!! I then finished off the day by onsighting a couple of great routes ‘Trix Roughly’ (26/7b+) and ‘Madge Macdonald’ (23/7a). We all headed home feeling pretty wasted.
I woke up after a nice rest day feeling good and with a little more skin. Got the train early and met Matt again and headed back to Elphinstone. Matt wanted to finish off ‘Green Grass’ (29/8a) and I wanted to check out the moves on ‘Tiger Cat’ (33/8c). We both warmed up and I gave Matt a belay on ‘Green Grass’. He came so close to sticking the last move on the crux. He was feeling pretty psyched with his efforts as it had been about six months since he lasted climbed due to an injury! Great effort mate! He has only been climbing for four years and has managed to climb a handful of 8c’s in that time. Strong bugga! I got on ‘Tiger Cat’ and managed to do all the moves pretty quickly. On the second redpoint I fell off high up on the last few tricky crimpy moves damn it! We then watched Quentin (a strong French climber) breeze up Tiger Cat and saw Lee succeed with another (8b+ or 8c) first ascent to the right. What a day! We finished feeling very happy with our efforts and decided to come back here the next day.
Elphinstone again. Warmed up!!! Matt totally beasted ‘Green Grass’ clipping the chains with ease. Nice job!! Meanwhile, I had a couple more goes at ‘Tiger Cat’, but kept falling from the same move high up going for a right hand slot from a tiny left hand crimp. Anyway I manage to compose myself and have one last effort and this time I stuck the move and climbed to the top. It was a bloody great feeling ticking this route. It’s one of the best climbing experiences I have ever had. Great effort to Lee Cossey for the first ascent! Another rest day calling…
The 'blueys' or Blue Mountains to you and I...
Well, we have just returned back from another amazing Euro trip to the south of France. It sounds crazy to think that we were out there for 5 weeks as it just went so quickly! Me, Ed and our great friend Ethan all headed down in a very full Mazda bongo!
Sam Hamer on Quassia 8a+
So we spent the majority of the time in this huge gorge just north of Nice called the Gorge du Loup and most of this time was spent climbing at the world famous Deverse sector. It was an incredible place to climb with some of the steepest and hardest routes in the world all packed into this one cliff! Tuffa’s and chipped pockets was the name of the game here. So yeah, a pretty wicked place to be if you like that kind of stuff. So during the time we were there, some fairly amazing sends went down from a lot of people, including three 9a’s by some Euro beasts!! It was a pretty hard place to get used to as everything was just soooo hard and steep! I found the style of the climbing there pretty tough and didn’t quite get the sends that I was hoping for from the trip but still managed some stunners. Ed as per usual crushed most routes he got on and got some amazing sends!
Here were some of the highlights of the gorge Deverse Satanique 8a, Cascade 8a, Sika 8a, Arrow head 8a, Welcome to the jungle 8a, Quassai 8a+.
Ed powered his way up these beasts!- Hot Chili X 8c, Quenelles Trophy 8c, New Power Sacrafice 8c, Hot chili beans volcano 8b+, Honk 8b+, SatanX 8b, New Power Generation 8b, Soul Sacrifice 8b.
Then for the last week we needed a change, so headed across to Chateauverte near Aix and did some awesome 40metre pump fests as well as a few bouldery offerings. It was a tad warm but a great place to unwind and finish the trip off. The top routes were Atlantis 8a, Bill boullette 8a, Le Diktateur 7c+ and Alexandre du blocos 7c+.
All in all a great trip was had with over 100 routes climbed on amazing cliffs in a beautiful area of southern France. It did get fairly stressful at times but we had some pretty rad times as well! Bring on the next trip hey!
Right time to get back into training for the next trip!! Also looking forward to getting stuck into some trad projects on the Grit!
Wild Country and Red Chili climber Ed Hamer reports:
'I have just returned from a great trip to Spain. I spent a week in Margalef and then went over to Siurana for a couple of days to end the trip off. I had already been to both of the crags some years ago so had some specific routes I wanted to try.
Ed on Gigololo 8a+ Siurana....
I wanted to crack a new grade category and was successful in doing so with a send of L’espiadimonis 8c/+. Another route that stood out amongst the others was a route called Doble Lluna, originally graded 8b/+ but I was informed afterwards that a hold had broken off, bumping it up to top end 8b+ possibly 8c? We had 10 days of amazing weather, sometimes it was a little too hot but this meant climbing in the mornings and evenings. After spending 6 days in Margalef on pockets, my skin was thinning and I needed to pinch and crimp a few holds for a change. Hence my move to Siurana.
Anyway before I get into too much detail I had a fun trip and can’t wait to return next year.
My ticklist in the 8 days included:
Siurana - L’escamarla 7c+ (os), Peixa 7c+ (os), Gigololo 8a+ (2nd go), Cop de Cigala 8a+ (2nd go), Migranya Profunda 8b+ (2nd go),
Margalef – El Allento Del Dragon 8a (2nd go), Aeroplastica Extension 8a (os), Vertigen 8a (2nd go), El fustigador 8a+, Absolut 8a+, Deverse Cordes 8a+ (os), El Mananeo 8b (2nd go), Doble Lluna 8b+, L’espiadimonis 8c.
Ed on a very impressive second go send of Migranya Profunda 8b+ Siurana....
He's a little update on recent activities since getting back from Thailand. Weather hasn’t been too helpful but we've managed a few good stuff.
We've tried to mix it up as much as possible. So here’s where we’ve been, what we’ve done.
Sam Hamer on Never Never Land, E6/7 6b, Ramshaw Rocks UK
Malham (Very wet + cold!): New Age traveller 8a, L’ob session 7c+, Herbie 7c+ (onsight-ed), Obsession 7b+ (os-ed), The Last Toad 7b+ (os), Conceptual 7b.
• Orme (Even wetter!): Masterclass 8a (Moffat classic and historic line), Loui Armstrong V13 (hefty grade dispatched by the youth!)
• Llandullas cave (too windy!): Manjekeews 7b+, Whirral whip 7c+
• Dinbren (waterfall!): Walking with barrence 7b, I punched Judy first 7b+ (great name!), Flowers are for the dead 7c. Ed didn’t climb, he wanted to go home and weep!
• Stanage (dry and mint..finally!): Brad Pitt V10 (thank the lord!)
• Lovely Matlock quarry (dryish): The power of the dark side (was E8 but more like cool E6/7 6b, mint line though).
• Harston rocks/Churnet (well good!): We both did One Chromosomes Missing E7 6b and then I sketched my way up Pair O’Genes E7 6c. Two awesome routes in a very esoteric seeting!
And last weekend we hit Stanage Marble wall to grab an onsight of Goosey Goosey gander E5 6a and then the next day we were over at a rare sunny Ramshaw crag, where the classic
line Never, Never land E7 6b went down.
So yeh that’s all so far, on our quest to finding awesome routes on dry rock! Ed's off to Spain next week for 10 days of pocket tweaking in Margalef. I've got quite a bit of work on over the next month and a bit.
But then we've got some big trips planned around the UK this summer. Let's hope it's a dry one
Sam on Power Of The Darkside E7 6b