Have you ever wondered what elevates sport beyond any other activity humans occupy themselves with? In my opinion, it’s the dopamine rush we get from the challenge–A biochemical reaction in our central nervous system that creates feedback exceeding the threshold of the stimuli from our daily routine. These are the sort of theories that captivate my mind after a long day of work. Maybe this is my momentary stimuli fix as I blend my enjoyment of research from my work with an eagerness for my next day of climbing.
I am a climber and molecular medicine student in Innsbruck; I also work in the Department of Virology at the medical university of Innsbruck. In stark contrast to some of my climbing partners, who enjoy seemingly endless bouldering and climbing days, I look forward to the weekends. This has made me very selective about my weekend trips, as I want to get the most out of my limited climbing time. For this, the Zillertal, which is only a 30–45 minute drive, has become my bouldering haven.
Growing up in the climbing community in Kitzbühel, Austria, and later as I traveled the country and world, I was captivated by tales of the high-quality granite blocks that lay peacefully in the woods of the Zillertal like sleeping giants. There is such an abundance of blocks here that guidebooks can only fit the most established and classic lines. In contrast, the more recent gems are left to exist only as sketches on the back of coasters or in slightly out-of-focus mobile pictures.
As possibilities in the Zillertal vastly exceed this blog’s limitations, I want to touch on some boulders in two areas in particular. The first is in Ginzling, where time seemingly stands still amidst the silent mossy woods allowing you to disconnect from any stress or troubles of your daily routine. The other is in Zemmschlucht, the antagonist to serenity. Here a turbulent river roars like an arena full of spectators, cheering you on when you send.
Bouldering Areas and Grading
If your climbing background is more competition-based (like mine), you will most likely get hit in the face with the grading on some boulders because the style is particular. Figuring out the right beta for you is almost as crucial as being fit enough to execute it. If you climb hard indoors, that by no means translates into bouldering grades in the valley. Still, if you figure out the specific crimpy / compression-like / tension-based style required for most boulders, you will have a great time!
Ginzling
- Yellow Submarine (6b): The beautiful iron-shaped, slightly overhanging boulder is a classic warmup with good crimps.
- Bambi (6c+): Although it has a challenging sit start, this is a nice warmup where you make your way up using the edges on the left and right sides of the block.
- Scharfes Loch (6b+): Rightfully named ‘Sharp Hole’ is a beautiful line on good jugs with a unique hole feature.
- Sundance Sit (8a+): A top boulder that requires hook and kneebar skills along with the recommendation of at least three pads and an adequate spotter.
- Sundance Kit (7b+): An easier standing start to Sundance Sit that foregoes the starting hook section.
- Incubator (8b): This is the classic boulder in the area comprising two crux moves and a sit start that takes you to an often wet crimp.
Zemmschlucht – at the river
- Black Beauty (8a): This line starts with a hard gastón move followed by a jug on the tip of the block. You need to consider the river for this problem, though, as it is inaccessible after rainstorms or during snowmelt.
- Der Weg zum Horn (8a): A beautiful highball that features some round crimps at the lower section and a slabby top out.
- Chop Suey (7c+): Beautiful moves that everyone considers a classic.
- Traumschiff (8b+): This spectacular line follows an arête using complex moves that benefit from good hooking technique and hip flexibility.
Zemmschlucht – hillside above the street in the woods
- Nihilist (8a) / Nihilist low (8b) / Nihilist sit (8b+): These lines ascend an almost horizontal roof and are some of the greatest test pieces for the grade in the valley. I highly recommend a kneepad when you start low!
- Podestinger (8a): This is an excellent problem with a half dyno from a bad crimp and toe hook to an okay left pocket. The sit start adds a (+), although there is still some discussion around the grade of this relatively new problem.
Guidebooks
The Alpen en bloc 2 by Copertine Flessibile is a good guidebook for the Zillertal and also includes many other areas. Unfortunately, since it was published in 2017, many of the newest routes are not included. For this, I suggest going online to 27crags, thecrag, and visiting Markus-schwaiger.at . He is one of the pioneers in the valley and has provided some great beta.
Gear
Apart from plenty of water, I suggest a plethora of crash pads since many boulders have sketchy landings. Also, a harness, short rope, and quickdraws to boulder out some of the highballs are helpful as many boulders are fixed with top anchors. Also, a fingerboard or something to warm up with is crucial as many boulders don’t have other nearby options. And as I mentioned before, if you go in the winter bring lots of warm clothes as you are in the mountains and it gets cold quickly.
Climbing Seasons
The best time for bouldering depends if you value friction above all else. The best friction is usually in the late winter and early spring when temperatures rarely rise above 10-15°C. If you go during this time, bring a shovel for the top outs. And of course, lots of warm clothes and tea as campfires are not allowed in the woods. If you prefer warmer climbing, the most enjoyable time is spring and autumn, when the temperatures range from 15-20°C. Even in the summer, though, you can still find suitable conditions, especially in the Zemmschlucht. Outside of the winter, it is essential to watch the weather for multiple days leading up to climbing, though, as some boulders can take time to dry out since sunlight is scarce.
Where to sleep
It is prohibited to stay overnight at parking lots near the bouldering areas or other areas not explicitly designated as camping. Still, there are campsites directly in the valley, with the most popular one being in Mayrhofen. If you prefer more comfort, you can also find pensions in Mayrhofen and the surrounding villages.
Eat Drink and Meet Local Climbers
If you love great Tyrolean food, then Zillertal has plenty to offer. As a rule, any restaurant with Stubn –an old word for living room– is a great choice. For local favorites, you should try Spinatknödel, a sort of dumpling made with bread and spinach. And, of course, Kaiserschmarrn, which counts both as a meal and dessert. Be warned, though, an endless debate carries on whether to eat this with Zwetschkenröster– a kind of plum jam– or apple sauce. I prefer Zwetschkenröster.
