I grew up in a climbing family in northern Norway with the local hills as my playground, and since I can remember, the sport has been a part of my life. It is more than a sport though, it is a lifestyle; from everyday adventures to weekends, holidays, and trips abroad, climbing has been there, and I will probably always dream about life as a climbing bum. Simultaneously, I am fond of everyday life; work, studying and having some sort of “normal” routine. This gives me balance. It also makes the reward of getting outside even more enjoyable. Therefore, finding a place to live where I am near the mountains and have a “normal” life is important. In a sense, this is how Lofoten became my home and the backyard playground I dream of.
Honestly, Lofoten wasn’t always the plan, but after my high-school desire to travel abroad for a year of climbing and skiing took a shift, I realized that Lofoten, only a five-hour drive from where I grew up, was perfect for me. In that first year, I fell in love with its nature and atmosphere so much that I only took one trip aboard. After this, I returned every summer for two to three months to work and climb while studying. But that first year left me dreaming of not only visiting these walls, seaside cliffs, and boulders but of calling them home.
In July of 2020, on my annual visit, I realized all of my classes would be online due to COVID-19. I took the opportunity at full-stride and settled into a house in Henningsvær, right next to some of Lofoten’s best climbing. And while I do miss traveling in the winter for warmer climbing, I can now climb every day the weather allows. And experiencing all four seasons keeps me motivated. As the weather changes, I can exchange my rock shoes for ice axes and skis while looking forward to summer, seaside walls, sport climbing, and bouldering. The opportunities here are endless, and even on a two-week holiday, you could climb every day within walking distance from Henningsvær as you change disciplines. With so many options, though, I want to offer some tips specifically for trad climbing and bouldering to help as you dream about a trip here.
Easy Access climbing:
The routes and crags here are in no short supply, with primarily solid rock ranging from single pitch to big walls, so you are sure to find some memorable climbs. And although most climbers want to do a lap on the famous Geita – the goat-looking mountain above Svolvær, it gets very crowded, especially in July when you have to stand in line to rap in. And while I could still suggest doing the routes Forsida and Englevinger here, I have other suggestions to help you spend more time climbing.
- Gandalf wall: Located near the road and the camping area with the same name, this area offers an easy introduction to climbing in Lofoten with routes from (5-) to (8+). It can get quite crowded, but with five top 50 climbs here, it’s still worth a visit!
- Festvåg area: This area is comprised of two cliffs, Festvåg and Lille Festvåg, and is less crowded than others. These are the two closest crags to town and located just below the Gandalf Wall and camping. Here you will find routes ranging from (3) to (7a). Lundeklubben (6a+) is an excellent option for a less crowded warm-up.
- Sport climbing: If you love sport climbing, you can’t miss out on Eggum. Here you find routes from (5+) to (8b) in different styles, and it’s also a good place to go climbing if it’s raining!
Long Multi-pitch climbs:
- Storpillaren (7): A super nice and longer climb with an even longer descent. This 450-500m long climb includes everything you need on a day in the mountains - perfect steep jamming cracks, crimpy traversing, and chimneys. Storpillaren really gives you the feeling of big wall climbing!
- Vestpillaren Direct (6): This is a super classic located on Presten that I like to repeat every summer! I have done different routes here, but this line will give you world-class climbing all the way! I suggest bringing a double set of #0.4-#2 Friends, and even triples in 0.5’s.
- Nordryggen (4+): This is my favorite alpine climb in Lofoten- especially of this grade. I recommend starting late in the afternoon so that you can climb in the sun during the night. If you feel safe doing a running belay, I recommend this on the ridge, except for the three (4+) pitches, to save time. Bring a single set of cams and nuts, a light rope, and a lot of 60cm slings. To make it a true one-of-a-kind memory, bring a sleeping bag and spend the night on the top of Vågakallen. In the morning, you will wake up to the most fantastic view before making the descent.
Insiders tip on timing the classics: If you want to climb the popular Vestpillaren on Present, or Bare blåbær, in Djupfjorden, I recommend a late start. This goes against my alpine start personality, but most people go early in the morning to be first in line. But, all three routes get evening sun so starting late provides a great experience of climbing at night with beautiful light.
Bouldering:
There are 24 different bouldering areas in Lofoten, so you certainly will not get bored. For me, being able to transition between bouldering and long trad routes makes it perfect for climbing multiple days in a row. Here are a few of my favorite areas.
- Stem Bastesen – I spend most of my bouldering time in this area. Here you will find a large concentration of around 60 boulders ranging from easy grades to some of the hardest in Lofoten like Springflo (8b). My favorites here is Roof Reach (6C), Tare Baby (7c), and Sunshine (8a+)
- Presten boulders - Here, you will find nearly 100 boulders of easier grades and some magnificent harder boulders. One of my favorites is a super classic must-do - Presten Roof (7a+).
- Finnvika – This area is less crowded but still a good location for bouldering, sport climbing, and camping!There are around 50 boulders from grade (4) to (7C+). My favorite is a Ben Moon boulder – Flour Power (7a+) which is perfect if you love steep climbing on small crimps.
Guidebooks:
There is only one guidebook for trad and sport climbing In Lofoten. This is Lofoten Climbs by Thorbjørn Enevold and Chris Craggs and is in English. Some of the sport climbing is new, so I recommend using 27crags for information. For bouldering, I use Bouldering in Lofoten by Jonas Paulsson and also find newer boulders on 27crags.
Gear:
Always bring a double rack of Friends, and even triples of 0.5 Friends will be helpful. I also suggest a set of small Zero Friends as the placements can vary. Along with this, I always bring a wind and down jacket–You are in the north, and you never know when it will get cold and windy.
Climbing Seasons:
For pure rock climbing visiting between June and September is the best, with the most popular months being July and August. During this period, temps are great for climbing ranging from 9ºC to 25ºC, which is perfect for granite. From mid-May until August, the sun doesn’t fully set, so you can experience 24-hours of daylight.
Where to sleep:
The most popular tent spots are next to the Gandalf wall and on Kalle. Both are within walking distance to some of the must-do routes I mentioned above and have individual benefits. Camping next to Gandalf allows you to be within walking distance to Henningsvær, where you can grab some food, beer, or ice cream between climbing. While at Kalle, you can benefit from the new toilet and showers and enjoy a beautiful little beach next to the camp. No matter where you camp, remember Lofoten is a busy tourist spot with a lot of traffic in nature. So, please do your part in helping to keep it beautiful and always leave your camp spot how you found it, or better yet, more pristine, even if that means picking up after others who left things behind.
Eat Drink and Meet Local Climbers:
After a long day climbing, nothing tastes better than a beer and a burger in Henningsvær. I suggest Klatrekafeen, where you are sure to meet other climbers so you can share your successes for the day, or sit and listen to stories and some live music. If the weather is nice, you can’t miss out on eating pizza at Trevarefabrikken, where you can enjoy the midnight sun and dance all night!
