I grew up in a climbing family in northern Norway with the local hills as my playground, and since I can remember, the sport has been a part of my life. It is more than a sport though, it is a lifestyle; from everyday adventures to weekends, holidays, and trips abroad, climbing has been there, and I will probably always dream about life as a climbing bum. Simultaneously, I am fond of everyday life; work, studying and having some sort of "normal" routine. This gives me balance. It also makes the reward of getting outside even more enjoyable. Therefore, finding a place to live where I am near the mountains and have a "normal" life is important. In a sense, this is how Lofoten became my home and the backyard playground I dream of.

 

Honestly, Lofoten wasn't always the plan, but after my high-school desire to travel abroad for a year of climbing and skiing took a shift, I realized that Lofoten, only a five-hour drive from where I grew up, was perfect for me. In that first year, I fell in love with its nature and atmosphere so much that I only took one trip aboard. After this, I returned every summer for two to three months to work and climb while studying. But that first year left me dreaming of not only visiting these walls, seaside cliffs, and boulders but of calling them home.

 

 

This is precisely what I found when I stepped onto the route. After the initial (6c) pitch, I put my hands on what I discovered to be a 40-meter, full endurance (8b) on tuffas. This pitch is varied, technical, and pumpy. After working the moves, I knew right away I was lucky to have chosen such a beautiful route; this single pitch at any crag would be a must-do, 5-star. As I took in the rope with a smile, I could hear my second’s agreement as he worked the moves with exclamations of delight! The (7b) pitch is a long stunning colonnette, and then there are the two magnificent (8a)’s on tuffas. The easier traverse and top pitch might not deserve too much celebration, but they allow you to link between four incredible pitches. 

 

Working on Une Jolie and figuring out every detail, I couldn’t help but remember my adventure on the Voie Petit (500m, 8b max) back in 2016. At altitude, above a glacier, and on granite, these two routes have little in common, but my process was just the same. Negotiating with my fear 300 meters up a new wall is always an intimidating position, especially my fear of failing. I had to refocus on the pleasure and enjoy it. After all, I was abandoning my kid for a full day, so I had better make it a worthwhile success. 

 

 

My achievement wouldn’t come through a grade, though; for a long time, I have realized grades are all relative. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter if it is a 9c or 7c; no one cares! It’s only climbing. It can only be for MY pleasure that I decide to put myself through fear, tiredness, and then, hope, and belief, which all turn into a passion. Of course, over the two days that I worked the route, I had quite a few moments where I despaired in figuring out a method. I also went to bed those nights, asking myself why I was doing this. But then, waking up at 5 am to beat the afternoon sun, I itched to put my hands on the rock, savored the idea that I could only rely on myself to get the rope up; this project reawakened the climber that I am.

 

I came home with precise sequences in my head and the knowledge that if I trained, visualized, and prepared, I had a chance to link it all. I knew training would be challenging, especially motivating for another endurance lap through the summer heat. But I was finding myself again, finding my space to be a climber and a good mum. 

 

I returned to the route with James a month later while the grandparents took care of Arthur. Part of me wondered why we were leaving our baby, and we both felt a bit empty without him jumping around the van. But then in the early morning, I put my game face on, James transformed into Mr. Perfect Belayer, and the fun began. In the (8b), I had no idea if I had the necessary endurance, but in a month’s training, I had noticed that it was all coming back quickly. I climbed precisely without a single mistake. I have no idea how it happened–maybe being a parent and having little time forced me to improve my efficiency. The (7b), the first (8a), the (5c) it all went smoothly. Then, in the last (8a), I made a few mistakes. I forgot a few methods, and there was a moment at the very end, where I realized I had to make the right decision very fast, or I would be off, and maybe not have the energy to try the pitch again.

 

 

It is here that I faced my old friend, the fear of failing; every climber has to find a way of dealing with this. When I was a competition climber, I used to tell myself to focus closer on the pleasure of the movements. This time, with my forearms about to explode, and while I was struggling to slow my breathing on a relatively restful tuffa, I could see in my mind Arthur dancing to his favorite music. With that, I realized that falling would be ok; failing was indeed not that sad. Accepting the possibility of not doing it gave me the energy to finish the pitch and scrape my way to the belay. One more (6b), and I had done it, I was again the climber I wanted to be! I had proven to myself that there was a balance between being a mum and a climber. That even the joy of my little one could give me strength for climbing that I hadn’t had before.

 

I'd love to tell you James and I drove back home playing Une Jolie, but that would be too whimsically poetic. After all, ticking the climb for its name or notoriety is not the experience I was after. Plus, James hates the song, but James's story of understanding French poetry, and as I say, “truly” becoming French, is another story altogether.

 

 

Written by Martine Lim

Photos by Jan Erik Paulsen, Håvard Dalen, Håvard Dalen

 

Stage 6- Buoux

We stayed four days at the "Auberge des Seguins," which is a perfect location to go to the crags on foot. They even let us take our dinners outside by the bedroom while the baby was already in Bed. Buoux doesn't need any publicity. It is a unique, incredible crag, and there is a reason for its Fame. Buoux is a Must visit". No matter what your level is, you will find a gem to climb!

 

Stage 7- Mouries

Mouries is a long way from Buoux, and we had initially planned some extra stops. But the heatwave had begun, and the other planned spots were not as exciting. So, instead of climbing stops, we biked for two days, visited an abandoned troglodyte village (les grottes de cales), and loved it!

 

Mouries again is an old lady, and if you can get away from requiring extremely tough grades and enjoy the technical climbing, you will love it. Mouries is a climbing lesson in itself.

 

 

Stage 8- Fontvieille secret crag

I can't tell you the secret crags, as they are secret because they aren't technically allowed. To find them you have to ask as you meet climbers on your previous days and if you are lucky they may tell you the secrets! France is full of them, and sometimes these are the best crags!

 

We arrived back home after 25 days of traveling and climbing. It wasn't always restful, but then living with a baby is never restful! Every day brought us load of discoveries, from a wild tortoise to incredible pains au chocolates, to meeting an old friend. Baby Arthur loved it. The minute we stepped back in the house, he was pointing again at the window, asking, "where next?" For James and me, we finish this adventure delighted to have realized that we still have so much left to explore, and it is all less than 100km from our home. This bike and climb trip is only the first!

 

 

In July of 2020, on my annual visit, I realized all of my classes would be online due to COVID-19. I took the opportunity at full-stride and settled into a house in Henningsvær, right next to some of Lofoten's best climbing. And while I do miss traveling in the winter for warmer climbing, I can now climb every day the weather allows. And experiencing all four seasons keeps me motivated. As the weather changes, I can exchange my rock shoes for ice axes and skis while looking forward to summer, seaside walls, sport climbing, and bouldering. The opportunities here are endless, and even on a two-week holiday, you could climb every day within walking distance from Henningsvær as you change disciplines. With so many options, though, I want to offer some tips specifically for trad climbing and bouldering to help as you dream about a trip here.

 

Easy Access climbing

The routes and crags here are in no short supply, with primarily solid rock ranging from single pitch to big walls, so you are sure to find some memorable climbs. And although most climbers want to do a lap on the famous Geita – the goat-looking mountain above Svolvær, it gets very crowded, especially in July when you have to stand in line to rap in. And while I could still suggest doing the routes Forsida and Englevinger here, I have other suggestions to help you spend more time climbing.

• Gandalf wall:  Located near the road and the camping area with the same name, this area offers an easy introduction to climbing in Lofoten with routes from (5-) to (8+). It can get quite crowded, but with five top 50 climbs here, it's still worth a visit! 

• Festvåg area: This area is comprised of two cliffs, Festvåg and Lille Festvåg, and is less crowded than others. These are the two closest crags to town and located just below the Gandalf Wall and camping. Here you will find routes ranging from (3) to (7a). Lundeklubben (6a+) is an excellent option for a less crowded warm-up. 

• Sport climbing: If you love sport climbing, you can't miss out on Eggum. Here you find routes from (5+) to (8b) in different styles, and it's also a good place to go climbing if it's raining!

 

SHARE ON

 

The route is a 7-pitch (8b), and 6-months after having a baby, the idea of achieving this was going to be my “I am back” diploma. When I chose it, I knew I was on my way back to fitness, and I had just figured out a rhythm where baby let me train and sleep a bit. Fitness isn’t everything, though I also needed focus, dedication, and the will to finish such a route. What I experienced as a young mum was a total shift of focus in my life. Every second of the day, part of my mind was on my little one – Does he need anything? Is he in danger? When baby Arthur was 6-months old, I couldn’t write a full text, read a book, or focus. I willingly disappeared behind “the veil of mum.” But I was hoping I would find my fully functional brain again, on top of my late abdominals.

 

 

Long Multi-pitch climbs

• Storpillaren (7): A super nice and longer climb with an even longer descent. This 450-500m long climb includes everything you need on a day in the mountains - perfect steep jamming cracks, crimpy traversing, and chimneys. Storpillaren really gives you the feeling of big wall climbing!    

• Vestpillaren Direct (6): This is a super classic located on Presten that I like to repeat every summer! I have done different routes here, but this line will give you world-class climbing all the way! I suggest bringing a double set of #0.4-#2 Friends, and even triples in 0.5's.

• Nordryggen (4+): This is my favorite alpine climb in Lofoten- especially of this grade. I recommend starting late in the afternoon so that you can climb in the sun during the night. If you feel safe doing a running belay, I recommend this on the ridge, except for the three (4+) pitches, to save time. Bring a single set of cams and nuts, a light rope, and a lot of 60cm slings. To make it a true one-of-a-kind memory, bring a sleeping bag and spend the night on the top of Vågakallen. In the morning, you will wake up to the most fantastic view before making the descent. 

 

Insiders tip on timing the classics: If you want to climb the popular Vestpillaren on Present, or Bare blåbær, in Djupfjorden, I recommend a late start. This goes against my alpine start personality, but most people go early in the morning to be first in line. But, all three routes get evening sun so starting late provides a great experience of climbing at night with beautiful light.

 

Bouldering

There are 24 different bouldering areas in Lofoten, so you certainly will not get bored. For me, being able to transition between bouldering and long trad routes makes it perfect for climbing multiple days in a row. Here are a few of my favorite areas.

• Stem Bastesen – I spend most of my bouldering time in this area. Here you will find a large concentration of around 60 boulders ranging from easy grades to some of the hardest in Lofoten like Springflo (8b). My favorites here is Roof Reach (6C), Tare Baby (7c), and Sunshine (8a+)

• Presten boulders - Here, you will find nearly 100 boulders of easier grades and some magnificent harder boulders. One of my favorites is a super classic must-do - Presten Roof  (7a+).

• Finnvika – This area is less crowded but still a good location for bouldering, sport climbing, and camping! There are around 50 boulders from grade (4) to (7C+). My favorite is a Ben Moon boulder – Flour Power (7a+) which is perfect if you love steep climbing on small crimps. 

 

 

Guidebooks

There is only one guidebook for trad and sport climbing In Lofoten. This is Lofoten Climbs by Thorbjørn Enevold and Chris Craggs and is in English. Some of the sport climbing is new, so I recommend using 27crags for information. For bouldering, I use Bouldering in Lofoten by Jonas Paulsson and also find newer boulders on 27crags. 

 

Gear

Always bring a double rack of Friends, and even triples of 0.5 Friends will be helpful. I also suggest a set of small Zero Friends as the placements can vary. Along with this, I always bring a wind and down jacket–You are in the north, and you never know when it will get cold and windy.

 

Climbing Seasons

For pure rock climbing visiting between June and September is the best, with the most popular months being July and August. During this period, temps are great for climbing ranging from 9ºC to 25ºC, which is perfect for granite. From mid-May until August, the sun doesn't fully set, so you can experience 24-hours of daylight. 

 

 

LOFOTEN - A DREAM HOME

by Martine Lim

 

5.0 minute read

 

 

 

LOFOTEN - A DREAM HOME

by Martine Lim

 

5.0 minute read

 

 

Where to sleep

The most popular tent spots are next to the Gandalf wall and on Kalle. Both are within walking distance to some of the must-do routes I mentioned above and have individual benefits. Camping next to Gandalf allows you to be within walking distance to Henningsvær, where you can grab some food, beer, or ice cream between climbing. While at Kalle, you can benefit from the new toilet and showers and enjoy a beautiful little beach next to the camp. No matter where you camp, remember Lofoten is a busy tourist spot with a lot of traffic in nature. So, please do your part in helping to keep it beautiful and always leave your camp spot how you found it, or better yet, more pristine, even if that means picking up after others who left things behind.

 

Eat Drink and Meet Local Climbers

After a long day climbing, nothing tastes better than a beer and a burger in Henningsvær. I suggest Klatrekafeen, where you are sure to meet other climbers so you can share your successes for the day, or sit and listen to stories and some live music. If the weather is nice, you can't miss out on eating pizza at Trevarefabrikken, where you can enjoy the midnight sun and dance all night!

 

 

For more insider tips and stories from around the world, join our Weekend Warrior journey as we release new episodes and destinations each week through summer 2021. 

 

Where to sleep

The most popular tent spots are next to the Gandalf wall and on Kalle. Both are within walking distance to some of the must-do routes I mentioned above and have individual benefits. Camping next to Gandalf allows you to be within walking distance to Henningsvær, where you can grab some food, beer, or ice cream between climbing. While at Kalle, you can benefit from the new toilet and showers and enjoy a beautiful little beach next to the camp. No matter where you camp, remember Lofoten is a busy tourist spot with a lot of traffic in nature. So, please do your part in helping to keep it beautiful and always leave your camp spot how you found it, or better yet, more pristine, even if that means picking up after others who left things behind.

 

Eat Drink and Meet Local Climbers

After a long day climbing, nothing tastes better than a beer and a burger in Henningsvær. I suggest Klatrekafeen, where you are sure to meet other climbers so you can share your successes for the day, or sit and listen to stories and some live music. If the weather is nice, you can't miss out on eating pizza at Trevarefabrikken, where you can enjoy the midnight sun and dance all night!

 

For more insider tips and stories from around the world, join our Weekend Warrior journey as we release new episodes and destinations each week through summer 2021.

 

SHARE ON