Harnesses

Different types of climbing harness have different strengths and features. In general, climbing harnesses have the same basic features: a padded waist belt with auto-locking buckles, two leg loops, a tie-in or belay loop that joins the leg loops to the waist belt, and gear loops along the sides. Some harnesses are designed specifically for particular types of climbing, while others are versatile enough for all types of climbing. Have a think about what you want to use your harness for before you buy.

Sport climbing involves clipping your rope into fixed bolts for protection – and might involve a lot of single-pitch climbing. A harness that is comfortable for both hanging in and belaying is your main priority here. You won’t need loads of extra gear loops – two are probably fine.

Placing your own protection as you climb often requires much more gear than sport climbing, for extending runners or building anchors, i.e. you need more racking space. Four or more larger gear loops is a good idea. And as you might well be hanging about more, increased padding is useful.

The same applies as for trad climbing harnesses. In addition, for all-day, multi-pitch adventures, you might need a harness that allows you to carry a full rack with anchors and that is comfortable for hanging at belays and abseiling, plus space for extras like your shoes, a windproof jacket, or water.

For alpine climbing with ice, or mixed climbing, you want a comfortable harness with plenty of racking space.
Adjustable leg loops can make it easier to adjust over more layers in winter or to take your harness on or off when wearing skis or crampons. For simple glacier crossings, a basic harness is fine.

Ice routes are protected by ice screws, so if you’re climbing steep ice, you’ll need to carry them with you. The easiest way to do this is on a special ice screw holder attached to the waist belt of your harness. Make sure you choose a harness with dedicated slots to accept ice screw clippers.

Look for a harness that’s snug but not tight. If your harness fits well, you’ll find that you’ll be able to adjust the waist to go both up or down a size. Think about what layers you might be wearing when you go climbing. Most harnesses come in a range of sizes.

Once tightened, you shouldn’t be able to pull a harness down over your hips and the leg loops should be just snug enough to slip a hand under. How comfortable will it be to hang in? Try it on and hang out in a few different models to see what works for you? The leg loops should hold most of your weight, while the waist belt supports your upper body.

There are surprisingly few harnesses designed specifically for women. And yet, most women climbers find specially-shaped harnesses more comfortable, as women have a different pelvis and waist-to-leg size ratio than men. As a result, women generally find it more comfortable when a harness sits on their waist, rather than around their hips. Wild Country has designed a collection of ergonomic harnesses with ‘Women’s Specific Fit’, designed specifically to suit the female anatomy.