Quickdraws - nylon, Dyneema, solidgate, wiregate, extendable, fixed length, hooded nose - the list goes on.

Whether you are a seasoned climber or just building your first rack James Pearson from Once Upon a Climb has some tips on how to choose between different types of quickdraws, how to rack, and offers a few tips for climbers of all experience levels.

1 ISLAND, 2 MONKS AND UNTOUCHED GRANITE

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“Why did James and I pick a small dot on the other side of the planet?”

Because Yuji told us about it. The last time Yuji proposed us a trip, we ended up in Kinabalu, the now oh so famous mountain where untouched granite will overwhelm the climber. The Real Rock tour has thrown Kinabalu into fame, but 5 years ago, when we went there, no climber could even put it on the climbing

Kinkasan is a small island not far from Fukushima, on the north east side of Japan. It has 26km circumference and is inhabited by two monks. From Tokyo it is a six hour journey. Yuji didn’t say that much more: Kinkasan’s coast is covered with granite cliffs, and there is a Shinto shrine on it. Yuji mentioned as well the damages made by the tsunami…

We began our journey with next to no expectations about the climbing, and a big question mark for the rest. 3 days in the trip and I know exactly why we came: for Japan. 

2 years ago we spent a week in this unique country and both James and I knew that we had to come back one day: how could I compare it? Well, the first time you taste wine, you have heard a lot about it. But you smell, and you only smell the alcohol, you taste and you can’t put words on it because wine is subtle, complicated and requests an education. You have to go back to it, learn to enjoy, differentiate and remember. Japan is maybe a little bit like wine.

There is this astonishing mix of modernity (the Japanese toilets and their multi jets, music and self cleaning options give you an idea of the immensity of your difference)  and spirituality, respect, focus.

We arrived at Base Camp, the gym that Yuji opened 5 years ago in Tokyo, and I oscillate between marvel and shame. I am a pro climber, and most of the boulders are too hard for me, the Japanese climbers around me seem to evolve so effortlessly, like flying cats on the wall. But then you realise: the world championship have just finished in Paris and in the bouldering competition, 3 of the 6 medals are not only Japanese, but from Tokyo, from Base Camp. Yuji and his company helps the athletes become professional and they often climb together. Shall I repeat that? Half of the world’s medals come from one gym! Surely there is no wonder that Yuji owns that gym… But that is only just the very top of the iceberg, because behind this 3 medals, there are a lot of other athletes with an incredible level. I have never seen so many good, extremely good boulderers in one place. And I am a former competition climber, trust me, I know what I am talking about.

“Why are they so good?”

The answer is surely complicated but here are a few elements: climbing has become very trendy in Japan, with over a 100 gyms in Tokyo. The Japanese body type is perfect for climbing; light, powerful and explosive muscles. The Japanese constant pursuit of perfection pushes the athletes to train hard, just like everyone around them simply accomplished every task with perfection.

It was dry for the crossing, and after unpacking our bags at the shrine we bouldered on a nearby beach for 1 hour before the rain came. With so much rock to see and so little time, we hiked out anyway along the coast to search out potential lines. The rain became heavier, we became wetter, and after 4 soggy hours we returned to the shrine, hopes high but spirits low. We’d been preparing this trip since September 2015, putting the team together, finding funding from sponsors, organizing the local logistics, yet it would all be in vain if the weather didn’t brighten up.

A morning of rain gave us the excuse to sit down and record some interviews, though truthfully we had little to say as we’d done little climbing. Toru, ever the silent optimist finally dragged me out to the closest boulder spot during a break between two showers, and we were surprisingly able to climb! Toru lived up to his reputation of boldness and brilliance, making the first ascents of two of Kinkasan’s boldest and hardest problems. Finally things were looking up. The forecast was good for the following days, and group psyche could not have been higher. We began to plan our upcoming adventure and our first trip to the other side of the island – the area with the highest concentration of rock, and the biggest cliffs, but had to cut them short as bad news broke.

With my thirst for climbing temporarily quenched, we left the island in limbo, happy, yet sad, but knowing we’d be back in less than 24 hours. We passed the day visiting some of the worst tsunami affected towns in an effort to better understand what hardships the local people had to live through, and how they are moving forwards towards the future. It is one thing to watch the news from the comfort of your lounge back home, it is another thing entirely to see it first hand, and speak to the people who have lost everything - houses, possessions, loved ones!

Suddenly our troubles with the rain seemed embarrassingly small, and we remembered why we were actually here in the first place.

Our personal climbing desires must come second to the larger goal of showing this place to the world. Rain or shine, we have to get out there. Hike around, document the potential, and if in the end we are lucky, open up some new routes.

 

Let’s start from the basics.

 

What is a quickdraw?

A quickdraw is two carabiners linked with a sling. The carabiners can either be solid gate or wire gates, and the slings are either Nylon or Dyneema.

 

Are quickdraws better with Nylon or Dyneema sling?

It depends. Nylon slings are usually used in sport climbing or in situations where you might take a lot of repeated falls. The slings themselves are thicker and harder wearing, and a lot more comfortable to grab on if you ever want to pull up between bolts to maybe go and work in different sections of the route. Dyneema slings are usually used the trad climbing or sport onsighting when you’re placing the draws yourself. They're thinner and a lot lighter which can make a huge difference.

 

Which sling size for quickdraws?

It depends on the project you're working on or the trip you're packing for. Generally speaking, longer quickdraws are a little bit more flexible, but having a few short ones on your harness can be useful especially for low tricky bits of first protection.

And if ever you're struggling to decide exactly which size of sling to take, grab a couple of shoulder length slings. These things weight nothing and can be a real lifesaver if ever you need to extend the piece and you don't have the right quickdraw.

 

 

How to rack quickdraws on the harness?

You can rack your quickdraws on your harness in size order from small to big, front to back. That way, you can take the correct size without even having to look down.

 

Which are the best quickdraws for beginners?

For your first quickdraws just go with some lightweight Dyneema draws as these can be pretty much used for anything. Later on, if you feel the need, if you're starting to do more and more sport climbing, maybe add some sport drawers to the mix.

 

Which are the lightest Wild Country quickdraws?

Wild Country's Astro draws are one of the lightest draws on the market, but Heliums are also great and super light for a full-size biner.

 

 

 

Building a Climbing Rack
Step 1 - Quickdraws

 

 

Quickdraws - nylon, Dyneema, solidgate, wiregate, extendable, fixed length, hooded nose - the list goes on.

Whether you are a seasoned climber or just building your first rack James Pearson from Once Upon a Climb has some tips on how to choose between different types of quickdraws, how to rack, and offers a few tips for climbers of all experience levels.

 

Quickdraws - nylon, Dyneema, solidgate, wiregate, extendable, fixed length, hooded nose - the list goes on.

 

Whether you are a seasoned climber or just building your first rack James Pearson from Once Upon a Climb has some tips on how to choose between different types of quickdraws, how to rack, and offers a few tips for climbers of all experience levels.

 

 

Quickdraws - nylon, Dyneema, solidgate, wiregate, extendable, fixed length, hooded nose - the list goes on.

 

Whether you are a seasoned climber or just building your first rack James Pearson from Once Upon a Climb has some tips on how to choose between different types of quickdraws, how to rack, and offers a few tips for climbers of all experience levels.