When you grow up drinking from the same wild outdoors as your brother, father, and grandfather, the place becomes unique and special. It becomes a place you look forward to getting back to on weekends or holidays, to revisit old climbs and memories and discover new ones. For me, this is La Pedriza in Spain. 

 

I remember my first time climbing here well. I was about eight years old. Although I had already been bouldering in sneakers with my brother, and there are pictures of me climbing in diapers, this particular experience sticks out in my mind. My father and uncle took my cousins and me to do our first aid routes on some small riveted lines they put up in the 70s to train for more challenging climbs. I have great memories of those first days, sleeping in bivouacs and hiking small distances with our tiny backpacks full of dreams, psyche, and enthusiasm.

 

 

Written by Talo Martin

Photos by Manu Prats

 

My desire to return to La Pedriza isn't only for nostalgia, though; it is a wild and unique place. First of all, it is home to the rockrose, or Jara, a bush with sticky leaves that blooms with white flowers in the spring. And for climbing, it is a utopia with one of the largest granite ranges in Europe, with almost 5,000 routes and 4,500 boulders. You would need more than one lifetime to experience it all. I want to help you know it a little better and introduce you to some of my favorite spots.

 

Sport

Cancho de Los Brezos

This south-facing crag is excellent for an intro to slabs with grades ranging from (4) to (8c) on rock with small edges and heel smears, helping make your introduction less traumatic. Once you feel comfortable Editorial Aguado (6a), Phoenix (6a), or Pepi (6b) are great for testing your 80's pure essence style on run-out lines.

 

Risco de La Peseta and El Euro

This combines two north-facing crags with only a 30-minute approach from the parking lot. The routes range from (5+) to (7a) in the lower El Euro and from (6c) to (8b+) in Risco de La Peseta, which has many hard slab routes. Also, during the winter, the sun doesn't warm the rock here until 15:00, so it's great when you arrive from traveling or after a day of work. The rock here is made up of strangely shaped groups of crystals that you pinch and smear on, so a stiff shoe will make things easier.

 

La Raja

For summer, this is a very unique and special crag developed in an old underground basalt quarry on 25-meter high walls that are only 3-meters wide at the base. And it is a great place to visit in the summer to escape the heat. Here you will find 30 overhanging routes ranging from (6c) to (7c) and up to (9a), albeit with some chipped holds, and another 30 slab routes ranging from (6a) to (7c). 

 

 

Bouldering

There is no shortage of bouldering, with almost a hundred areas to choose from. Here are a few classics you shouldn't miss.

 

Garganta de la Camorza

This is a north-facing area, allowing you to boulder here year-round with a wide variety of styles and grades up to 8C. Some of the gems of the area are La Sonrisa (6C), El Viajero (7C+) and Samurai (8B).

 

Bosque de Canto Cochino forest

Here, you will find a concentration of classic boulders and even 8A+ slabs. Mona Lisa (8A+), La Placa Infinita (7B), and Karate Feet (7B+) are an ode to slab climbing. 

 

Trad

You can find anything from single pitch to 200-meter long routes with a wide range of grades up to (8a). Below is a small selection of memorable routes and areas. First though, here are some tips on grades and exposure. The traditional climbing ethics in La Pedriza are similar to those found in places like Val di Mello, Italy. Historically, from the 80s and 90s, slabs were established ground up using as few bolts as possible where gear wouldn't work. This ethos has fallen to the wayside over the years. The exposure scale is measured in M values, M1– well protected; M2– some exposed sections between bolts; M3– potentially dangerous, including the risk of death. There can also be a + in between the M grades.

 

La Sur Clásica al Pájaro

This 200-meter long (6a) is one of the most iconic routes in Spain. It was first ascended in 1935, just before the Spanish Civil War, using a 20-meter hemp rope and a handful of pitons. Today, it is a reference point for the area and one of the most repeated lines. 

 

El Yelmo

The 150-meter-tall dome is possibly the most iconic in the area. It was first climbed in 1864 and now contains 125 routes. A notable route is Gálvez-Pascual (6c), established in 1977 using a few rivets pre-placed on abseil, which changed the mentality and ethics for the following generation. 

 

Risco del Hueso

This is a magical place with multiple must-visit routes. Including the classic Fulgencio (6a), which ascends an 80-meter arch. Alongside this are some of the world's most beautiful 8a+ slabs; Art-Herencia (8a+) and Territorio Comanche (8c+/9a)–one of the most difficult slabs on the planet.

 

 

Guidebooks

In an area as large as La Pedriza, various guidebooks focus on each discipline of climbing. If you need a suggestion for a wide selection of climbs, though, I suggest Escaladas en La Pedriza by Luis Santamaría, which contains a selection of 964 sport routes up to 8c. There's also a new trad guidebook coming out in 2022 as the old one is no longer in print. For bouldering, I published Pedriza Boulder 3470 in 2020, which includes almost 3,500 boulder problems spread out in 78 areas and satellite crags. This book is in English-Spanish with maps, Google GPS points, and a load of detailed pictures to help you spend more time climbing and less time wandering around. 

 

Gear

You can usually climb all over La Pedriza with 15 quickdraws and one or two sets of Friends and Rocks. Cracks are generally varied and do not require many repeated Friends. Some routes do require pitons and aid gear, though, so read the guidebook. The most important thing is a stiff and comfortable climbing shoe for the slab routes. 

 

Climbing Seasons

Although you can climb year-round and avoid the summer heat, it becomes impossible to even climb a 6b with much dignity under the full summer sun. Thus, I suggest November to April as the best time to visit. For the rock, you will find the best conditions between 5 ℃ and 15 ℃, although for harder routes closer to 0 ℃ is optimal to feel the power of this unique climbing style and friction that can only be found in a few places in the world.